Acoustic Panels 101: The Ultimate Buyer's Guide
Acoustic panels are essential for any effective acoustic treatment plan in a recording studio. While they may not absorb low frequencies as well as bass traps, they play a crucial role in eliminating standing waves between parallel walls—a common issue in the small, cubical rooms often found in home recording studios.
This ultimate guide will provide you with all the information you need to navigate this important topic.
You might be surprised to learn that building homemade DIY acoustic panels is more common than you think. While commercially bought acoustic panels tend to be pricier, they have the significant advantage of being performance-tested, ensuring they effectively do their job.
Many novice studio owners often make the mistake of using materials like carpeting, cardboard, or egg crate foam. These materials may absorb higher frequencies but allow lower ones to persist, resulting in a dull, bass-heavy sound.
To avoid this, it's advisable to gain a few years of experience first. Understand what a well-treated room should sound like compared to a poorly treated one. Once you have that foundation, feel free to experiment with homemade panels later on.
When shopping for acoustic foam online, consider these three key features:
The industry standard is 2 inches, while 4 inches is considered premium and more expensive. Thicker panels are technically better, but 2 inches is sufficient for most purposes. I’ll share a mounting trick later that can make 2-inch panels as effective as their thicker counterparts.
Acoustic panels usually feature a 3D pattern on the surface, with wedged and pyramid shapes being the most common. While these patterns can slightly impact performance, the differences are minimal, so you can choose based on aesthetics.
Panels typically come in packages of 6, 12, or 24, with sizes of 1 ft², 2 ft², or 2 ft × 4 ft. The key is to focus on the total square footage of coverage. A good starting point for most home studios is around 48 ft², which could be achieved with:
- 48 one-foot panels
- 12 two-foot panels
- 6 two-by-four-foot panels
Any of these options will work well, but I generally recommend smaller panels as they are lighter and easier to mount using temporary adhesives that won't damage your walls.
Product descriptions usually feature a “Noise Reduction Coefficient (NRC) rating” ranging from 0 to 1. The higher the number, the better the absorption. However, this rating is largely irrelevant for recording studios for a couple of reasons:
The NRC rating is determined by testing absorption at only four frequencies:
- 2000 Hz
- 1000 Hz
- 500 Hz
- 250 Hz
This means frequencies below 250 Hz, where many problematic studio issues arise, are not measured.
A more accurate metric is the Sound Absorption Coefficient (SRC), which assesses absorption over a specific narrow band of frequencies. Unfortunately, SRC ratings are not commonly included in product descriptions.
Whether you have some experience with commercial acoustic panels or you're simply a handy person looking for a fun project, building your own acoustic panels can be a rewarding endeavor. It can also be a cost-effective alternative to buying ready-made panels.
Here’s what you’ll need:
- Hammer/Nails: To construct the frame
- Glue: To secure the insulation within the frame
- Staple Gun/Scissors: To secure and trim the outer fabric
- Mounting Brackets: To attach the finished panel to the wall
- Wood: For constructing a standard 2ft by 4ft frame
- Fabric: To cover the exposed insulation and enhance the panel's appearance
- Insulation Material: Such as mineral wool or fiberglass insulation, which is effective for sound absorption.
- Optional Paint/Stain: For finishing the wood frame.
Start by cutting your wood to create a rectangular frame. For a standard acoustic panel, you will need two pieces of wood at 4 feet long and two pieces at 2 feet long. Use a miter saw for clean, accurate cuts. If you prefer a different size, adjust the measurements accordingly.
Arrange the wood pieces into a rectangle on a flat surface. Use wood glue at the joints and secure them with nails or screws for added stability. Make sure the corners are square by measuring diagonally. Once the frame is assembled, let the glue dry completely.
While the frame is drying, measure and cut the insulation material to fit snugly inside the frame. It should be slightly less than the inner dimensions of the frame to allow for easy insertion. Wear a mask and gloves while handling fiberglass insulation to protect yourself from irritation.
Once the frame is dry, place the cut insulation inside the frame. Use glue to secure it in place, making sure it fits tightly against the frame edges. This will help maximize sound absorption.
Choose a fabric that complements your décor while allowing sound to pass through. Natural fibers like cotton or linen work best for acoustics. Cut the fabric so that it extends about 2 inches beyond the edges of the frame on all sides.
Lay the frame face down on a clean surface. Center the fabric over the insulation and start pulling it taut. Use a staple gun to secure the fabric to the back of the frame. Start in the middle of one side, then move to the opposite side, pulling the fabric tight before stapling. Repeat this process on all sides, folding the corners neatly like wrapping a present for a clean finish.
Once the fabric is securely attached, use scissors to trim any excess fabric from the edges. Ensure that the fabric is tightly wrapped around the insulation and there are no loose ends.
If you want to give your acoustic panels a more polished look, consider painting or staining the wooden frame. Make sure the finish is completely dry before moving on to the next step.
To hang your acoustic panels, install mounting brackets on the back of each panel. This will allow for easy installation on the wall. Ensure that the brackets are evenly spaced and securely attached.
Determine where you want to place the panels. For optimal sound absorption, consider placing them in areas where sound reflects the most, such as opposite walls or around a listening area. Use a level to ensure the panels are straight, and secure them to the wall using appropriate screws or anchors.
